An introduction to GSB cusine
GSB konkani’s are typically vegetarians (But as time changed people have evolved with time and variations have come into our food habits). Here I will be describing the cusine of GSB’s in South Kerala.
We eat all parts of the plant whichever is consumable you can say from leaves, stem, flowers, roots, fruits etc. But no onions and garlic are consumed. We just do not let anything go waste. Leafy vegetables are our favourite especially Taro leaves (Colocasia or arvi leaves). You will not find a single Konkani who has not tasted ‘Pathrovodo’, a dish made out of Taro leaves, in his life time. Besides we even consume coutrtyard grown leafy vegetables like sambar cheera leaves (water leaf or Ceylon spinach), drumstick leaves, agathi cheera leaves (Sesbania sps), thumba leaves (Leucas, Ceylon slitwort) etc…….
Coconut is another major ingredient in our dishes. Even for just garnishing we use coconut. Even a slightly stinking coconut is not thrown by us. We take and roast it and make bhajjili thambili (roasted chutney) which goes along with idli dosa or soy bhajjili ghassiyae masolu, which is used in the preparation of various dishes.
To include protein in our diet we eat mostly all kinds of pulses. No lunch is complete without dali thoy (lentil soup). It is a main as well as a major dish to be served on top of rice. We eat pulses made into ukkari’s, sprouted pulses in salads or made into ukkari or whatever combination we prefer to have.
Eventhough we consume brown rice we are raw rice eaters. For all our poojas, festivals, ceremonies and on auspicious days we usually prepare raw rice for lunch.
Flowers of pumpkin, drumstick agathi cheera are also prepared into a variety of dishes.
Peels of tapioca, chavli, papaya etc are used in the preparation of fritters.
Tamarind, darambo (kudampuli or brindle berry) and starfruit (carmabal) are the popular souring agents.
The main spices include asafetida, fenugreek seeds, coriander seeds, turmeric powder, mustard and cumin seeds.
History and migration
How the name GSB came?
Gowda Saraswath Brahmin’s, popularly known as GSB’s, got their name` Saraswath`, for being settlers on the banks of river Saraswathi or as the followers of sage Saraswath muni who settled on the banks of the river. Due to famine which lasted for 12 years, the Saraswaths were forced to eat fish in the beginning unlike other Brahmin communities in India (but no other flesh of any other animal was consumed). Even then they never consumed onion and garlic. Later they were forced to migrate to other parts of India. A part of the sect migrated south-west towards Goa, others towards Bihar. The Saraswaths who moved to Bihar reached Trihotrapura (modern Trihut in upper Bihar) and settled there. Trihotrapura is also known as Gowda Desha. Due to Muslim invasion in this region the Saraswaths migrated in two groups; one group migrated towards Bengal and settled there whereas the other went to Goa, then called as Gomantak. As the Saraswaths migrated from Gowda desha (i.e Trihotrapura) to Goa they were called as Gowda Saraswath Brahmins.
Settlement in Goa
The GSB’s in Goa were believed to be Shivaits. Sri Madhvacharya on his visit to Goa converted many GSB’s to Vaishnava’s. Even after the conversion the GSB’s still worship the Shiva God. They have their Kuladevatas connected with Shiva and Sakthi (Nageshi, Mahalasa,Shantheri Kamakshi etc).
Migration
The GSB’s migrated to Kerala in the 13th and 16th century during the Portuguese rule in Goa. The Portuguese rulers at that time were forcefully converting the Goans and out of fear the GSB’s escaped from Goa to nearby states of Kerala and Karnataka. They carried their Kuladevatha idols along with them.
In Kerala
In Kerala they migrated mainly to Cochin via sea. The then Raja of Cochin took them under his protection and gave them land to build their temples and houses.
At first the Brahmins in Kerala did not consider the GSB’s equal to them and were denied entry into their temples because GSB’s were fish eating and they came crossing the sea. Later the GSB’s gave up eating fish to mingle with the Brahmin community in Kerala.
Konkani – The Mother Tongue
Konkani is the mother tongue of the GSB’s. But due to migration of GSB’s to Kerala and Karnataka Konkani has lost its purity and got influenced by the local language spoken in those region that is, Kerala GSB’s incorporated some Malayalam words into Konkani whereas Karnataka’s GSB’s incorporated Kannada words. So what happened was different dialects for the same language. In Goa the condition became still worst that the Portuguese destroyed the old scriptures and writings in Konkani and made Portuguese the official language of Goa. After freedom Konkani became the official language of Goa but with a mix of Portuguese. Added to that the Konkani spoken by Hindus and Catholics was /is somewhat different in Goa.
Panchang-The Hindu Lunar Calendar
The lunar calendar follows the course of the moon. The lunar day or the ‘tithi’ is from one moon – rise to the next one. The lunar month has 12 months of 30 days and it is divided into two fortnights called Krishna Paksha and Shukla Paksha. Poornima is full moon day and amavasi is total darkness. The names of the 12 months are as follows. They are named based on the constellation of stars with which the moon rises on the full moon day.
1 Chaitra – March to April
2 Vaishaka – April to May
3 Jyestha – May to June
4 Ashadha – June to July
5 Shravana – July to August
6 Bhadrapada – August to September
7 Ashwij – September to October
8 Karthik – October to November
9 Margashirsha – November to December
10 Pushya – December to January
11 Magha – January to February
12 Phalgun – February to March
There are 30 tithis in each Lunar month named as
| SI No. | Krishna Paksha | Shukla Paksha |
| 1 | Prathama | Prathama |
| 2 | Dwitiya | Dwitiya |
| 3 | Tritiya | Tritiya |
| 4 | Chaturthi | Chaturthi |
| 5 | Panchami | Panchami |
| 6 | Shashti | Shashti |
| 7 | Saptami | Saptami |
| 8 | Ashtami | Ashtami |
| 9 | Navami | Navami |
| 10 | Dasami | Dasami |
| 11 | Ekadasi | Ekadasi |
| 12 | Dvadasi | Dvadasi |
| 13 | Trayodasi | Trayodasi |
| 14 | Chaturdashi | Chaturdashi |
| 15 | Amavasya | Amavasya |
Festivals, Fasts,Pooja’s, Cermonies and the various dishes prepared during the ocassion
Under this subheading I have mentioned only those festivals, fasts, poojas and ceremonies where special dishes are prepared by konkanis. The preparation of these dishes I will be including along with the recepies.
1 Anantha Chathurdasi
Observed on Chathurdasi day falling on Suklapaksha in the month of Bhadrapada. On this day bunches of coconut, mango leaves, varieties of fruits and vegetables are hung in front of diety. It is believed that the God will the devotees with good crops in their fields in the year to come.
The main dish prepared is Thousali
2 Tulsi Poojan
During SuklaPaksha Ekadasi in the month of Ashada Lord Vishnu is believed to go for his Yoga Nidra for Chathurmas. He is believed to reside in the tulsi plant which all GSB’s and even GSB temples have in their premises. He will reside in the Tulsi plant till Utthana Dwadasi ie Tulsi pooja day (Sukla Paksha Dwadasi of Karthika month). During this day flowers and fruits are hung around the plant as well as the Tulsi peetam. Rangolis are also drawn on the peetam. An aarathi is shown first to the plant and then to God in the house, signifying the entry of God from the plant to the house.
The main nivedya for this pooja is phov kalaylolo and banana.
In Karthik masu pulses and lentils are not consumed in houses and temples.
3 Deepavali
The ‘The festival of lights’. It is` The victory of good over evil’.
The name deepavali means ‘Row of lights’. It is the national festival of India. It is celebrated on Krishna Paksha Chaturdashi day in the month of Ashwin.
The whole house is cleaned. All members take oil bath. Mango leaves are hung in front of the houses. In the night they light diyas in front of their houses. People go to temple for prayers and blessings.
The main nivedyam is Satta Phovu without channa dal and moong dal is prepared since Deepavali is celebrated in Karthika Masa. During this month GSB’s won’t consume lentils and legumes.
Feast is prepared with variety of dishes. Kuwlya Ambat is the main dish.
The 3rd day after Diwali falling on Suklapaksha dwithiya day of Karthika month is celebrated as Ad-Diwali. On this day the married daughters of the house visit their parents house and celebrate that day as a festive day with their parents and siblings and parents. She will be given new dresses.
The main dish prepared is Pappayphala Ambat and Phadi Kalleyleli along with other sweet dishes.
In some homes Brahman (a pooja) is conducted. Since this Brahman is conducted in the month of Karthik masu no lentils and legumes are cooked as part of the Brahman feast. Instead pulchkari, elchakari (with tubers like suran, mandae and kachil and raw banana). Sornu and kachil fry, sopourkukka adigayi, sopurkukka ukkari, dhavae human, etc are prepared and dudha paysu is prepared as dessert.
4. Holi (Festival of colours)
One another festival depicting the victory of good over evil. It is also one of the festivals celebrated all over India. Holi is clelebrated from thryodashi to pournami falling in Shukla paksha in the month of Phalguna. In the midnight of tryodashi or early morning od chathurdashi two arecnut trees representing a man and women are burnt. This represents Holika Dahan.. on the third day that is pournami day known as Ukkuli an artificial effigy (Phodho) is burnt down. This is known as Kama Dhahanam. This is followed by throwing of turmeric water at each other especially by male members of the community and children.
The main dish prepared during ukkuli is Rontos ani Thoy.
5. Hanuman Jayanti
As the name indicates Hanuman Jayanti is to celebrate the birthday of Hanuman. It is celebrated on the Sukla Paksha Pournami day of the month of Chaithra. Usually the various festivities and pooja’s are conducted in temple premises to pray and attain the blessings of Lord Hanumantha.
The main neivedhyam is Sweet Puri.
6. Samsar Padavo (New Year Day)
Samsar Padavo is celebrated on the Prathama of Shukla Paksha in Chaitra Masa. On this day the whole house including the pooja room, deepam are cleaned. All members of the family take oil bath and wear new clothes. All members visit the temple. Forecast for the forthcoming year are read from the Panchannga are read in the temple. All have to consume the prasada of sugar and neem leaf givien in the temple. This bitter cum sweet prasada signifies that each and every member have to deal with the good and band part of life equally.
The main dishes prepared in homes during Samsar Padavo are as follows
Hittu, Kelya ambat, soyi bhajjili ghassi (or any dhavi ghassi but soyi bhajjili is preferred), Kelya phaadi thalili, allein, valval, alchakari and dhali thoy.The feast ends with dudha payasu.
7. Naaga Panchami
Naaga Panchami is celebrated on Shukla Paksha of Shravana Masa. On this day special pooja and Panchamrutha Abhishekam (Tender coconut, sugar, honey, milk, and ghee) are performed for the naaga devatas. The poojas and abhishekam are performed both at home (those who have sarpa kavu near their home) and in temple. After this the idol is beautifully decorated with flowers. It is believed the praying to naagas will protect one from snake bites and naaga doshas.
The prasadam prepared are Kutpaysu and Sopur Ghari.
Another dish prepared at home on the next day of naaga panchami is Adsara undi or Adsara sandan
8. Navarathri
This is a festival devoted to Goddess Sakthi for nine days. It is believed that Goddess Sakthi took the form of Durga to kill Mahishasura on Mahanavami day. The 10th day of the festival is celebrated as Vijayadashami. As per Konkani calendar Navarathri is from the Pratham od Shukla Paksha in ht emoth of Aswija. The first three days out of nine during Navarathri are devoteed to Goddess Durga the next three days to Goddess Lakshmi and last three days are for Goddess Saraswathi.
The first day of Navarathri is called Navarathna Padavo (The word ‘Padavo’ means first day of Navarathri). During this day the sumangalis (married women) take bath, clean the pooja room, sthana devo, shreyapathra or Sri Bhaan. The Sri Bhaan is emptied of the previous years rice and then only cleaned and dried. First thte sthana devo is lighted ritually. Then the Sri Bhanna is decorated with mango leaves, flowers , kumkum and chandan are applied to it. Then fresh raw rice is filled into it. It is closed with a lid. On top of the lid a coconut with a tuft of hair at the end (shendo), veedo (beetle leaves with arecanut), banana and a coin are kept on top of it. This is done usually as per the time mentioned on the Panchanga.
‘Bommakolu’ are also kept in some homes. This is a way of arranging idols/dolls of various Gods and Goddess in a step wise manner. Animal toys, dolls, fancy items can also be included. Usually the idols and dolls are made of clay. ‘Navadhanyas’ are also offered to the Goddess. As the name suggests this consists of nine grains (Bengal gram, wheat, horse gram, green gram, rice, white beans, black seasame seeds, chickpeas and black grams). Fruits and flowers are also kept.
On all the nine days sumangalis and young girls are invited to neighbouring homes and relative homes for haldi-kumkum. They all sing bhajans and participate in pooja. Before leaving the sumangalis apply haldi and kumkum to each other. Haldi and kumkum are also applied to the young girls. Then the lady of the house offer’s beetle leaves with areca nut, ribbon, glass bangles, banana, flower, kumkum dabba and kajal and any neivedyam prepared on that day like chonya dali ukkari, mugga ukkari etc (Usually pulses are used in the preparation of neivedyam)prepared on that day to the sumangalis. Bangles, banana, flowers, beaded chain, ribbon etc are offered to young girls. On the sixth day Sottu is prepared as neivedyam. Sopur ghaari is prepared on durghastami day and Bengal gram ukkari on navami day.
In some GSB families, ‘Brahman’ is conducted in their respective ancestral houses. All relatives and friends are invited for the function. The Bhattmamu will conduct pooja and kanika or offering to God during the pooja will be deposited into the ‘Hundi’ at Tirupati by anybody from the family who visits Tirupati the following year/same year.
The various dishes prepared during this day are
Seeth, Dhali thoy, saru, surna balook, Sopur ghari, kachila balook, mooliku, modoku, godda appo, tila laddu, kelya balook, dhave human, dhavi ghassi , allein, surna or sopurkukka adigayi, kelya sukkein and Dudha paysu.
On Mahanavami day the photo of Goddess Saraswathi is garlanded with flowers and all educational books, instruments, tools, knives used in kitchen are kept in front of the pooja room on a table. A cup overflowing with raw rice is also kept. Any fruits or parched rice added with sugar and coconut pieces can also be kept as nivedya for the Goddess. The next day is Vijayadashami. N this day pooja is performed and the books and other things kept for pooja are taken. It is compulsory to write and read the books. All are supposed to write “Om Hari Sree Ganapathayae Nmaha Avignamasthu” in their books.
On this day ‘Vidhyarambaham’ is conducted for children aged 3 years.
9. Laggachi Paraab
Laggachi Parabh is observed on Dwaadashi falling in the month of aashada. The belief is that during Shukla Paksha Ekadashi on the month of Ashada Lord Vishnu is believed to gor for his Yoga Nidra for Chaturmas. He is believed to reside in the Tulsi plant. He will reside in the Tulsi plant till Uthana Dwadasi (that is Shukla Paksha Dwadashi of Karthikmasu). Ekadashi vratha are followed on Shukla Paksha Ekadashi of the month of Ashada and the next day that is the Dwadashi day is called Laggachi Paraab. On this day the whole house including the pooja room, sthana devo are cleaned. Sthana devo is lighted. All members of the family take oil bath and wear new clothes. All members visit temple. During the day before the Paraab that is ekadashi newly wedded girls are invited to their homes. They are served Kelya Patholi on this day. The next day is Laggachi Paraab and a grand feast consisting of the following dishes are served. Hittu, Kelya ambat, soyi bajjili ghassi, seeth, dhali thoy, allein, kelya phadi, elchakari etc…… the feast ends with dudha paysu.
10. Suttan Punav
Suttan punav comes after sevedn days of Naaga Panchami in the month of Shravana. It is actually a men’s festival. It is meant for changing the sacred thread or ‘Jannuvae’ worn by men. Both Brahmachari and grihastha’s change Jannuvae on this day. The new Jannuvae to be worn is obtained from the temple after conducting respective poojas.
The main dishes prepared on this day are as follows
Hittu, soyi bhajjili ghassi, kelya ambat/ambya ambat/ponsa ambat, dali thoy, surae orva seeth, kelya phadi thalili, elchakari, allein etc……and the feast ends with dudha paysu.
11. Janmashtami/Gokulashtami
Janmashtami falls seven days after sutan punnav. It marks the birth of Lord Krishna who was born on the 8th day of the wanning moon in the month of Shravana.
The neivedyam offered at the time of pooja are banana chips, banana halwa, butter miced with sugar and cardamom, shiva karn etc…..
The feast during Janmashtami day has to be had after the pooja and will have the following dishes. Any dish containing rice is not used on this day. Cooked broken wheat (in place of rice; gova konya seeth), dhavae humman, sopur kukka ukkari, gajbaj, allein, banana chips, rava ladoo, banana halwa,Kuvlya ambat etc etc……
It is a tradition among GSB’s to give ‘Phalara Khotto’ to married girls of the faily by their fathers or brothers. As the name suggests ‘Phalara Khotto’ consists of fruits and vegetables, and also a ‘Januvae’ fro son-in-law/brother-in-law. The ‘Phalara Khotto’ has to be given before Janmashtami but after Sutan Punnav. Now-a-days due to various inconveniences money is sent/given in place of khotto.
12. Satyanarayan Vrat
Lord Satyanarayana is none other than Lord Vishnu himself. This pooja or vrata is performed to attain good health, peace and happiness in our day to day life. The pooja is conducted on full moon days.The bhatmammu or the priest will conduct the pooja. He will red out the story/stories of Satyanarayana to the listeners as well as tell them about the importance of conducting this pooja and listening to these stories. There is a mention about ‘Sapanivedu’ in the story. Hence ‘Sapanivedu’ is the main nivedu to be prepared. This nivedu is specially made out of broken wheat, milk, ghee and sugar. The quantity of each ingredient required to make this nivedu is also mentioned in the story. The quantity of the ingredients had to be in the mesasure of 1 ¼ th.
Brokenn wheat rawa 1 ¼ cup
Sugar 1 ¼ cup
Ghee 1 ¼ cup
Milk 1 ¼ cup x 2 = 2 ½ cup
So if you want to prepare more then take multiples of this. On the day of Satyanarayana pooja, the person conducting this pooja bathes himself and prepares this nivedu ritually as an offering. After the pooja the nivedu is distributed to all who have come to attend the pooja including neighbours and friends.
It is said for Satyanarayana pooja one need not be specially invited. One can go and attened to the story of Lord Satyanarayana even without an invitation from the person conducting the pooja.
Regarding ‘Ekbagat’
Bhatmamu, cook and the couples conducting the pooja are supposed to observe ‘Ekbagat’. ‘Ekbhagat’ means they have to consume rice/rice items only once on that day. If Satyanarayana is observed as ‘Vratam’ ekbagat is mandatory. If observed as ‘parayanam’ no restriction to food.
13. Ekadashi
Every fortnight in the lunar calendar had one ‘Ekadeshi’. This is well known as the day of Lord Vishnu. Fast is observed on this day and broken on dwadashi day. During the fast no rice items are consumed. Fruits and milk can be had by the people observing faston this day. Onions and garlic along with tea and coffee are totally avoided on this day. One has to observe the fast from sunrise to sunset. The one who observes fost on ekadesi day has to engage themselves in chanting Vishnu Sahasranama Stotram or reading Bhagavatam or even the Bhagavad Gita. It is mandatory visit Lord Vishnu’s temple on this day.
Rule for the fast vary from family to family. That is some people eatlight food once a day some take two times a day. Some people observe ‘Ekadesi’ vrat by consuming water with tulsi leaves in it or just tender coconut water. But whatever may be the mode of the vrat you/familu is following it is the duty of the person observing the fast to concentrate his/her mind towards Lord Visnu on this day.
We konkanis prepare dishes like
Lallavam nissen (Porridge made out of Bombay rava)
Plain gova polo without any side dishes. (if side dishes are there you will eat more so to limit the intake of food side dishes are avoided).
14. Pumsavanam (Baby Shower)
This is the 7th month ceremony conducted during the first pregnancy. It is meant for tiding away evil spirits from mother and child in the womb. It is also meant for the well being of both mother abd child. At forst a ‘homa’ is conducted seating both would-be-parents by the batmammu. Then they have to get blessings from the elders in the family. After that comes the ladies only function of giving sweets to the pregnant women. A ‘Holo’ (a boy accompaniment) is seated by the side of the pregnant lady. A banana leaf each is placed in front of both of them. Various sweets are placed on both the banana l;eaf in the rationof 3: 1 or 5: 3 that is 3 pieces or 5 pieces of a particular sweet to pregnant lady means 1 piece or 3 pieces to the ‘Holo’. Usually 5 sweets are basically prepared during the Pumsavanam by the husband’s mother. They are Undo, Mando, Mandaro, Nevri, and Purdo. First person to place the sweets will be husbands mother followed by other sumangalis(married women) in the family. The other sumangalis need to place only one type of sweet. Before placing the sweets they apply Kumkum and Chandan to the pregnant women and holo and then give sweets. After that some people give money or saree or dress material. After all the women have completed the procedure the ‘Holo’ will be asked to take any sweet kept on the leaf. Once he has consumed the pregnant women will be asked to consume a sweet. Based on the type of sweet taken by ht e’Holo’ the other ladies will predict whether the child born will be a boy or a girl!!!!!!
This is followed by a normal feast of seeth, dali thoy, elchakari, dhavi ghassi, ukkari, pappad, thiksani, and dudha paysu.
15. Palyandavrap and Namakaran (Naming ceremony)
These two ceremonies are usually inseparable from each other. This is usually conducted on the 12th day after delivery for boys and 10th day after delivery for girls. In olden times a girl child was not given much importance as of now so only ‘palyandavrap’ was conducted for her. Still now some families do not conduct ‘namakarana’ pooja for a girl child. For namakarana a ‘homa’ will be conducted by the bhatmammu and a name will be suggested by him for the child. A name will have already been choosen by the parents (in olden times by the father of the child alone) for the child and he/she will be called by this name along with the name suggested by the bhatmamu. Next come the cradiling ceremony that is playandavrap. Only after this ceremony the child will be allowed to lie in the cradle. Before cradiling the baby all the kids attending the function are given ‘Thisthis’ as garlands (a piece of ‘vayambu’ tied by white threads). The baby is also garlanded so also are the cows and calves. This represents the folk of Vrindavana (that is gopalas and cows). At first ‘Balbhadra’ is palced on the upper left side of the cradle. ‘Balbadra’ is none other thatn Balrama Krishna’s elder brother; this is a sign of protection to the baby. For this a well spherical stone is clad in red silk and adorned with kumkum, chandan and Thisthi). Both the grandmothers (elderly sumangalis from both the sides) of the child stand opposite side of the cradle and place the child in the cradle with the accompaniment of Bala jo jo re……….song. When the child is placed in the caradle he or she is personified as baby Lord Rama or Lord Krishna. After the cradling ceremony both the parents, grandparents give gifts for the child. This is followed by gifts from neighbours, friends and relatives. The function is followed by a normal feast of seeth, dali thoy, elchakari, dhavi ghassi, ukkari, pappad, thiksani, and dudha paysu.
The main item of the function is Phovu Kaleylolo.
16. Satta phovu
This is prepared on the 6th day after birth of the child. On this day the parents and family members pray to Goddess Parvathi asking her to protect their child in the same way how she protected Karthikeya. Since this phovu is prepared on the 6th day after birth and the first to be prepared in the lifetime of an individual it is called as ‘Satta’ phovu.
The other occasions when this phovu are prepared are during Palyandavrap and Namakaran, Anna prasam (Barso), wedding engagement.
Satta phovu without channa dal and moong dal is prepared during Deepavali since Deepavali is celebrated in Karthikmasu and during this month GSB’s would not consume lentils and legumes.
17. Theravo and Varshik
These two are after death ceremonies. Theravo is samaradhana conducted on the 13th day after death and Varshik is remembrance of the dead conducted on an yearly basis.
The various dishes prepared during this day are
For theravo the main dishes include
Therya bhajji and dhundu along with seeth, dali thoy, ukkari ghassi pappad and dudha paysu
For varshik
Sopur Ghari and pazampori are the main dishes prepared along with seeth dali thoy, ukkari ghassi pappad and dhooda paysu.
These vegetables are not taken for varshik
Drumstick leaves, Papayphal, Kuvalaein, Thendulaein, Cabbage Cauliflower.
The following vegetables can be taken for preparing various dishes for Varshik
Chavli, Bendae, Karathaein
To read more on konkani festivals refer to site: https://konkanifestivals.wordpress.com/